FordExcursions.com Forums
excursion_man
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• Dallas, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 8/2/2002 |
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• 53 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:1/6/2004 10:56 |
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I have contemplated doing this several times…Even took the doors off but never did anything.
Here is how I would handle it.
To keep stock appearance I would just trim the carpeted portion of my trim panels and keep the outer ring. (these may vibrate but I could probably solve that later.) After trimming you have about an inch depth to work with.
I would cut baffle boards the same shape as the cut outs so that the trim pieces will fit right over top giving you the exact same look once you carpet the baffle boards.
I then like the picture I would cut out a large portion of the door…tape the hell out of it…lay strips or resin soaked fleece in that are to form a bowl type shape. I would use this as the enclosure instead of the doors! You can build up the inside of the bowls to be very rigid and should help with output.
Next I would dynamat the rest of the door to help with vibrating.
I would then attach the bowl to my baffle board using resin/fleece (several layers for strength.
If you use a one-inch baffle board you could and router about ¼ inch off to flush the woofer. Then get a screen type grill for a fifteen or twelve…remove the outer trim ring and flatten out screen to be flat. Attach that over woofer on baffle board. Attach carpet over top of that and presto…You can’t see the woofer at all!
Attach box to door!
Done! Does this make any sense?
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RickyG
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• Lubbock, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 5/10/2003 |
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• 24 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:1/11/2004 00:22 |
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Excursion-man, thanks for the input!! I have considered that idea. The only problem with that is the available volume created by the "new box" of fiberglass. I don't think you could mount a 12" speaker in that volume and it sound good. I could probably relocate my 8" subs one in each door, but I really wanted to put a 12" sub in there(just one). I am planning to start on this next week when I have more time, and I will take a lot of pictures! Thanks again for your 2cents! Ricky  |
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Boar-Ral
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• Edmonton, XX, Canada |
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• Registered on 8/20/2003 |
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• 56 posts |
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Posted:2/27/2004 14:39 |
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I have toyed with the idea of installing my subwoofers into the rear doors. At the moment, I have a box built in the back that is level with the third row seat when folded. Installed in the box is a Soundstream Davinci 7 channel amplifier and a Soundstream Tarantula 15" subwoofer. I really like how it looks and how it sounds but two times per year the Excursion is filled to capacity with friends on a cross-country drive and without the box installed, luggage went to the roof. With the box installed, I fear we will not be able to fit everything. I have considered installing the subwoofers in the rear doors. I have also thought of installing them in the side walls of the Excursion but I am not sure how much room is behind there. When the stereo shop installs the third pair of speakers, I want to take a peak. (I installed the front two pairs of speakers but did not feel ambitious enough to install the rear pair.)
If anyone has any information on installing subwoofers in the walls, please let me know. I am very interested in that and in this thread in general. Too bad someone like JL didn't make a version of the StealthBox for this.  |
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RickyG
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• Lubbock, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 5/10/2003 |
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• 24 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:2/27/2004 15:18 |
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Boar-Ral, I started this thread and am almost done with the rear door install. I ran into some problems with my amps and just got the replacement in the other day. I will be posting all of the pics with step by step on how I built my rear door box. I am just working out the kinks with airleaks (port noise) now. Hopefully by the weekend I will have it complete  . I will hopefully post all of the pics on my website by next week. Ricky |
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Excur Fun
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• Acworth, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 8/17/2003 |
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• 11 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:2/27/2004 15:31 |
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Here are the pics ... This was taken with a PDA with no flash so the image is not great.
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E. Long
 
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• Subscriber since 1/1/2001 |
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• Atlanta, GA, USA |
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• Registered on 1/23/2001 |
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• 2,229 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Boar-Ral
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• Edmonton, XX, Canada |
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• Registered on 8/20/2003 |
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• 56 posts |
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Posted:2/27/2004 16:49 |
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These setups look so sweet. Does anyone want to buy my subwoofer box and subwoofer? |
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RickyG
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• Lubbock, TX, USA |
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• Registered on 5/10/2003 |
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• 24 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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 Posted:3/8/2004 21:40 |
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OK guys!!! The pics are in...........some of the final pics are not posted yet! but I think you can get the idea.
The idea behind this whole project was to move my current sub install to a location where it gave me back the space in the cargo area. My old box consisted of two Rockford HE2's 8" subs from my SuperCrew with a 5 channel MTX driving the entire system. I did a lot of searching and found several installs with the same idea. The main problem I had with this install was making the door air tight. Here is how the install went.
Plan A was to make a completely new rear door panel to replace the old one. This was a great idea until I found out the door is concave both from the top to bottom, but also from left to right. So, Plan B....this idea came from pic I saw on here, but took it a step further. I took the original door panel and cut out the area that is recessed with the carpet on it. I then made two 3/4" MDF panels the same size as the new cutout. It requirs two panels to make up for the thickness of the right side door panel which is thicker than the left side. In order for the box to sound worth a flip you must make the box airtight. So, I decided to box off the door latch and handle and solidify it with fiberglass (this is the main area of air leakage). There is also two drain holes across the bottom of the door that I used black silicone to seal. Also, the two door hinges I sealed with the same silicone. Next, I bolted the first layer of MDF to the door using a couple of existing holes on the left side, and bolting the other side to the metal Z bracket inside the door that supports the hinges. I thought this would help in keeping the door from sagging. I then used a fortsner bit to make room for the second board to fit over the bolts holding the first piece on. I then screwed and glued the second piece ontop of the first.
If you look closely at the pics in my album you can see where I had to fiberglass the top/bottom/right sides due to the concave shape of the door. At this point I thought I had the door pretty air tight......Wrong.....Not to mention the sub sounded aweful. It was very muddy and not accurate at all and boomy. There was this terrible flutter sound, which turned out to be port noise from the airleaks.........it turns out I missed a small 1/2" section behind the bottom hinge......and.........the three metal hole plugs that I though were secure, were not. If you look closely at your door, you will see the 3-4 plugs that allow access to the bolts that hold on the hinges. I decided to just secure them with silicone. I allowed it sit over night before testing again......
After installing some Polyester Fiberfill, and remounting the speaker again....it sounded awesome. The articulation was there, very tight sounding bass. I am a former recording engineer and know what sounds good and what doesn't and this think rocks! I am so happy! I hope the pictures and this long winded article helps someone out there do the same thing and enjoy it as much as I have. I know I have left some steps out, but you get the idea, my thought process......
If anyone needs more help or info feel free to ask! You guys have helped me out a ton on other topics. I will post pics of the finished product with the black leather and the door panel installed ASAP.
The estimated airspace is around 1.4 cubic feet give or take.....which is exactly what the HX2 required 1.25 plus .9 for the speaker itself
Ricky |
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Todd Brandt
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• Geyserville, CA, USA |
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• Registered on 12/30/2003 |
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• 18 posts |
• 1 Vehicle
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Posted:3/9/2004 17:08 |
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Ricky,
I debated on putting my subs in the rear doors like you did, but instead built a Spare Tire Sub Enclosure. I used 1" MDF for the Front and Back of the box, and laminated two 1/2" home made bender boards around the outside for the sides of the box. The box is about 32" diameter, and still fits the stock spare tire cover on it. It is home to two Phoenix Gold 12" Subs, and they ROCK. Very happy with the sound, and like you, I couldn't have done it without the help of others on this site that have made boxes similar to mine.
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kcautosound
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• Kansas City, MO, USA |
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• Registered on 6/17/2005 |
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• 16 posts |
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Posted:6/17/2005 03:04 |
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Some pics of an excursion I did for a customer.
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